garden of eden (Henry Cowell state park)

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IMGP3888.JPG … we were even a bit late for our apointments with michael, something almost unthinkable. still with the smell and feeling of the san lorenzo river on my skin (i must admit, giulia and maría had to insist to get me in the cold mountain river) i ran into michael (on the street, phoning to leta, to find out what happened) and all i could say was: “we were in the garden of eden”. he smiled, “yes, i’ve spent many summer days in the garden of eden, a good place to be”. funny how there was sun and blue sky in the garden of eden, and how the fog hit us when we got back to santa cruz by the ocean…

spanish class

“Bienvenidos. The first and most important sentence that we will learn is: No tener miedo de decir algo incorrecto.” The most important sentence, no doubt, because it was kind of the only full sentence we learned, and a bit unnecessary because the students had no inhibition to speak at all (albeit in English.) The first session of the cheap Spanish summer courses which the City of Santa Cruz offers to its residents (including alien non-residents like me). If it was anywhere near representative for language education around here, no wonder the white crowd in Santa Cruz is not bi-lingual.

The first hour we did the alphabet. Yes, the alphabet. You might be under the impression that the English and Spanish language share the latin alphabet. Give and take a perk here and there, like most languages that rely on the latin alphabet. But here in Santa Cruz we did an hour of learning the Spanish Alphabet. (i mean, when learning Turkish, a language that did a good job in twisting and stretching the latin alphabet, it didn’t take us an hour in class to get through the alphabet.) A list of rather random words (a – abeja, b – bicicleta,…) which got ridiculous at some point (w – waffle, cause the teacher couldn’t come up with a spanish word, and y – yoyo.) But don’t get a wrong impression, it wasn’t only about the teacher. The classmates just didn’t stop asking questions about how to pronounce this or that letter precisely. As the questions went on and on (and on…), my thoughts turned nasty – listen you guys, you’re not anywhere near the correct pronounciation, so what about shutting up now and as we actually start to speak a little bit, there will be more opportunity to practice pronounciation. But i just shut up, and let the nasty thoughts grow. The teacher, however, seemed to love this kind of attention, and continued pointing out how this letter is pronounced differently when it is followed by that letter, and how this word is pronounced differently in Nicaragua, while in Columbia they pronounce it this way, and then let’s not even talk about Spain (but meanwhile she obviously was) because that’s a different story all together (“Castilian is different from Spanish”, as she put it), cause imagine, over there they pronounce this word like that. Classmates were busy taking notes. “Oh, how interesting, so how would they pronounce this word in Mexico then?” I had my pen ostentatiously on the paper in front of me, my arms folded into each other on my desk, and kept on thinking, when is my Spanish class going to begin?

At the very end of that hour, a bit by accident, we got into the tu-usted business. You know, like tu-vous with its own idiosyncracies. Not only in Spanish in general, but to countries in particular, so before we knew it, we were on our way for another session of endless nerve-wrecking questions… “So if i’m in Venezuela and i want to address a person who looks younger than me but this person is the boss, what will i use then?” Well English i guess, cause the way this class is shaping up there’s little chance that you’ll be able to address the person in Spanish by the end of this summer, don’t worry. Could we now please start our language class? But tu-usted was too much a goldmine for trivial pursuit to be settled so soon. And i swear, it was only after the third time that i heard someone (including the teacher) mention that this was “oh so interesting” and so unlike English where we only have “you” that i intervened. “Well actually, in old English there was a very similar distinction between “thou” and “you”, only the words got collapsed into “you”. Blank looks. For a split-second i thought to say, you know, like Shakespeare, like “shall can i compare thee to a summer’s day”, but “thee” as conjugated form of “thou” would raise the confusion to unbearable levels…

The class took place in the Spanish classroom at the Santa Cruz High School on Walnut Street. The classroom is decorated with all kinds of posters and objects from Spain and Latin America. In front, above the blackboard, a large notice to remind students of the use of learning a foreign language. “10 reasons to take a foreign language at Santa Cruz High School.” number 6 reads: “It leads to a better understanding and use of English.”

As my comment kind of interrupted the fun, we moved on to the last part of the course: 40 minutes of introducing oneself in Spanish. The model phrase begins with “me llamo [name]” and since the teacher explained that this meant “my name is”, it took the class another round of confusion to figure out where the “is” figures in the sentence. Not a bad nor suprising question if you get no grammatical explanation, but there was no good answer. A total inability to provide the class with any kind of grammatical points of reference. Instead, the teacher repeated a number of times during those two hours that we didn’t have to be scared, we wouldn’t do much boring grammar. Boring grammar, says the Spanish teacher. I honestly don’t think i’ve ever had a language teacher teaching class that grammar was boring. That parts are difficult, and parts to be ignored for the moment being, yes. But boring? (on the contrary, i remember my Turkish teacher drooling over Turkish grammar, that is was the most beautiful and most logical in the world. and true enough, Turkish grammar is breath-taking, especially in the first levels of learning it, when you have to hold your breath before you speak and think of all the suffixes you need to add to the words…)

Once we got over the “me llamo” hurdle (without even mentioning the existence of reflexive verbs, simulating the students instead to learn “this expression” by heart), we sank, again a bit by accident i feel, into the deep waters of ser-estar. The preparation for the actual introduction included the teacher translating and writing words on the black board that students needed to present themselves: ama de casa, peinadora de perros, arquitecta, bibliotecaria, carpintero, maestro, etc. If you’re still following, the idea was, “me llamo [name] y yo soy [profession].” Then there’s a student who doesn’t want to do the profession thing and wants to say that he is happy. “Yo estoy feliz,” the teacher tells him. Not a chance that these things slip by in the class with neverending questions… so the rest of our time was consumed by whether “i am” is “yo soy” or “yo estoy”. Which would have been very fine, if the teacher was not so much into escaping grammar. When asked whether you could use both, she said yes. Total confusion, and as the students where trying out different combinations, she would correct them: “no, here you have to use estoy”. “Why?” “Cause it’s an expression, this is how you say it.” “But then why can’t you say…?” I was a bit on the edge of my nerves and as they went on and on (and on…), i couldn’t help intervening again. “There’s an indication for the difference: if it’s about a permanent quality, use “yo soy”, if it’s about a more temporary state of affairs, use “yo estoy” and then afterwards it gets a bit more complicated.” “How interesting,” and more sets of questions which at some point turn back to the teacher again: “Is this true?”. She nods, and goes on to dismiss the class, cause we’ve worked very hard today. (oh, i shouldn’t forget to mention that there was no homework.)

I left the classroom in a fury. This was the most miserable language class ever. And i have some experiences to compare with – i’ve taken, in chronological order, classes in french, classic greek, english, spanish, arabic, russian, italian and turkish. i’ve studied those languages in primary school (french), secundary school (greek, english), university language centers (spanish, russian), a university regular language degree course (russian), private language centers (russian, italian, turkish), and evening schools for popular education (russian, arabic). i’ve joined such classes in Belgium (french, greek, english, spanish, arabic, russian), the UK (arabic, russian), the Russian Federation (russian), the Netherlands (russian, italian), Italy (italian) and Turkey (turkish). Yet, i have never ever come across a language class that was so badly taught, and students so ill-equiped to learn a foreign language. (although now that i’m thinking about the student part, there were two elderly Brits, having lived in Cyprus for 5 years (!), who had the greatest difficulty in taking Turkish level one, to the point that the guy sighed, in exasperation (with a very british accent), “Wouldn’t it be so much easier if the Turks were to learn English?”).

Back home, after having told maría how i can’t continue with this class, i check the info i have from the City of Santa Cruz on their language courses. There’s no second level, this is the only course they offer each summer. My eye falls on the paper heading and in particular the Department of SC City which organizes the language courses: Parks and Recreation. Right…

manifestation

Time to introduce you to our 5th housemate, Cynthia. Cynthia used to work in Hollywood, as an assistent to Tarantino during Kill Bill, till she couldn’t take the guy anymore and quit. Yet another story of some kind of burn-out and being in Santa Cruz to heal. Santa Cruz seems to be made up of healers or those in need of healing or both at the same time.

Cynthia lived in the house before, some years ago, so she and Leta used to be housemates. I didn’t meet Cynthia before she moved in, Leta assured me she’s great and that we’d all like her. Some days ago Cynthia cooked us a dinner and there was a chance to talk a bit more than the first exchanges of friendliness. Cynthia is into spiritual things big time. The red thread throughout her stories of spiritual quest and many years of following certain spiritual leaders, is the power of manifestation. Which boils down to the cultivation of will power and visualisation, i.e. of different levels of consciousness, to make things happen, real, material. Kind of like: all that is in the air can condense into the solid.

It’s not that i don’t believe in the power of will, of spirit, of intuition, of things that escape the radars of those senses which we have learned to develop better. But the form, content and extent it takes with Cynthia is sick, really. Which could just be a case of another weird inhabitant of Santa Cruz – the brand of this place functions as an open invitation… – only her stories suggest entire networks and powerful individuals involved. Like the story of one of her gurus who was received a phonecall from Clinton the evening before the Senate’s vote on impeachment. (“Bill, you’re not leaving me much of a margin to work here…”)

No doubt all of that (her fascination with power) is part of the conspiracy delirium of her universe – yet another vision of the elected few who hold the power – but i’m starting to see how important it could be to understand better how all this shit taps into existing power structures.

So i get into the fascination of investigation (in a positive mode, not only the “i have to write about this place or it makes me crazy”) and ask for more, like i ask her what people use manifestation for. The answer is immediate and clear: the top two among the people she knows is money and a partner for life. It disgusts me profoundly. And then there are all the stories i didn’t have to ask for (Cynthia is into monologues…), like the meeting with her boyfriend. The cold, instrumental dating. Not finding a connection at first but going back to the list of qualities she had written down (helps for the manifestation part) and concluding that he really is all she asked for. Laughing with the ironies of spiritual power – “tall” was one of the qualities in her (long) list, and Drew is giant. Then there is his previous life as a knight, when he was unhappy in an arranged marriage, found his true love but then she got killed by his wife. A trauma he is still working through. And Cynthia is keeping a watchful eye out for whomever might be the reincarnation of the wife, who might be seeking to kill her…

It’s all about creativity, it’s all about abundance. If you put your mind to it – and all that the mind is capable of – you can have what you want. American dream gone California nuts…

permit

I had an appointment this morning at the DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles), and i arrived well in time to find that the appointment implied having a lady point me (and all the others, whether they had made an appointment or not) to queue up in “line A”. That’s where i got a California Driver’s Examination – a different one than the previous one which i didn’t pass. Thirty-six multiple choice questions throughout which i had to demonstrate my knowledge of the California driver’s code. In the special designated examination area, hardly separated from the hall full of people doing their DMV business, i answered all the questions. After struggling over some (like the legal blood alcohol concentration when you’re under 21, euh, wait a minute, i thought drinking under 21 wasn’t allowed in the first place… i got it wrong, guessed 0.1% and it seems to be 0.5%), i returned to the line and eventually gave the sheet of paper to another lady who corrected it on the spot (oh, i got nervous at that point…)

“You’ve passed.” Only two errors. “So when do you want an appointment for the behind-the-wheel driving test?” Very good question indeed. The thing is, there’s quite a stage in between for me, as i have never driven in my life. “Well, i’ll first need to learn how to drive.” “Sure,” she said without lifting her head from the stamps she was frantically putting on papers all over the place, “just call when you want to make an appointment.” She wasn’t really into her job as the guy was the other time – i could actually imagine him saying: “Oh just make that appointment and try, you might get lucky.”

In any case, sometime mid-morning i found myself on Capitola Road, waiting for a bus to take me home, and with a driving instruction permit in my bag. Was hard to believe, alienating and exciting at once (is this actually me, on the road to driving…). Standing at the bus stop, i was thinking about the whole DMV experience. There had been far more people than last time, the DMV was crowded on a this Monday morning. And i got the impression of seeing quite a cross-section of the population around here, including the obligatory weird figures like the guy with some kind of Elvis Presley shirt, greasy grey hair tightly combed back, super heavy grey eye-brows and… two small american flags sticking out on each side of his heavy glasses. In the absence of many things public, like spaces and services and not to forget bureaucracy and waiting lines, i started thinking… but this it! This is the equivalent of a more or less central public service, much more than the Social Security office on Walnut Street. Yes, this is the closest it gets to la Maison Communale de Saint-Gilles around here. Starting to think of it: a driver’s license counts very much as the most wide-spread identification. And in the (rare, somewhat pathetic) case that you don’t have one, the DMV is also the instance that issues identity cards – you know, just like a driver’s licence but it doesn’t allow you to drive. And the DMV is also a central place where you can register to vote – you know, one of these citizenship things. And you have to wait in lines – that must mean it’s a communist, i mean state thing. Not to mention the financial accessibility of it – you can get the license for half of the amount of a monthy bus pass, and in case you fail the first behind-the-wheel driving test, it costs 5 bucks for every extry try). There i stood on the busy Capitola Road, alone at the bus stop, with a car or two slowing down and offering a ride (but i wanted to be in a bus so much), thinking about the incredible extent to which citizenship is tied up with motor vehicles in this place…

Oh, let me share some of the things i learned while studying the local driver’s code with you:

Do not shoot firearms on a highway or at traffic signs.
(under “Additional Driving Rules – Things you must not do”, p. 33)

Try chewing gum or singing along with the radio.
(under “Health and Safety – Alertness”, p. 76)

And one of my exam questions. What interrupts a smooth flow of traffic?
Among the three possible answers: c) Leaving your car at home and taking public transport.

working house

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A warm lazy sunday in a house full of working people (yes, i am going to finish that article today, for real…).
Note who is the wise & healthy one, not attained by the virus…

bellacasa

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oh, maría moved in today. and didier.
and berna (only for this weekend though,
she’ll need some more convincing, so darling when you read this,
i won’t repeat what i’ve been saying, you know,…).
our house is so beautiful these days.

emancipation day

while investigating the history of Yosemite, and reading more about the Buffalo soldiers who were send to fight the Indian and Mexican wars, i realized i didn’t know when exactely slavery was officially abolished in his country. June 19, 1863. wondering whether there would be a celebration, i found that the Louden Nelson community center organized an Emancipation Proclamation afternoon in the park today.

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food and information stalls, people sitting down in the grass, a stage for peformances and games for children. there were perhaps 150 people, mostly black, and with Val, a woman of the health stall, we were joking that this kind of represents the whole black population of Santa Cruz. Val had approached us, asking if we wanted to have our blood pressure taken. she was part of a ABC/African-American Health Group at the Walnut Avenue Women’s Center, and their group had a stall with all kinds of health information and number of basic health examinations including a dental check-up. she talked to us about the need to do outreach for health issues (and both of us kind of confessed our own strategies to delay seeing to doctors of all kinds… Val laughed a made some confessions herself.)

and she talked to us about the situation of the African-American community here, which isn’t very strong. it accounts for 1% of the Santa Cruz population. and then there’s the incredible story of the Louden Nelson center. Nelson was a black man who, after gaining his freedom, settled in Santa Cruz and made a good living. when he died, he left his money and property for education purposes, effectively becoming a (middle-class) philantropist. so the community center is appropriately named after him, only the white folks didn’t get his name right (for goodness sake….): he was called London Nelson, but the center is named Louden Nelson. exasperating looks, what else is there to say…

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we saw Bob on stage, whom i had just met this morning while i was sitting in the sun on the steps of our house, taking over our house’ s garden sale while Leta went to her yoga class. already on his way to the park, Bob parked his car in front of our house, and lingered a bit at the garden sale, we talked about this and that. when he left, he got his guitar out of the car, and asked me if i could play.
“ah, not much, not worth mentioning… but i sure enjoy good music.”
“is that so? well come to Lulu Carpenter’s tonight. i’m playing. every saturday night.”
oh, so this was the famous bluesman from Arkansas that William had been telling us about… but the first time i saw him play was today in the park.

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suddenly berna joins maría and me in the grass. she had tried the house and then figured we’d be in the park. she shoud have been grading papers, but was desperate looking for something else to do. when two girls come up to us with their yellow ball, it’s clear we’re meant to play volley ball this sunny happy afternoon…

blood

Michael joked about the fact that Leta told him he might as well move his practice to Washington street. He’s in town only one day a week, and today he was treating Leta, María and myself. In fact, he added, at this moment his Santa Cruz patients boiled down to two groups of friends, one of them concentrated around our house. His practice is currently in a room in one of the older buildings on the main street, Pacific Ave. The room is in a corridor that could figure in a film noir set in the 1930s; each door could lead you into the world of a detective reading his newspaper and smoking a sigaret, or that of the lawyer smoking a sigar in the green light of the bankers lamp on his desk, both of them waiting for the rich client with a briefcase of money to arrive. Did i mention that some of the rooms have no windows? And in those that have, the blinds keep day light out. The door to the room Michael uses one day a week opens into a different world all together; one that for some bizarre reason invokes Russian-Mongolian memories in me, although the room is merely about trying to create some sober kind of Chinese atmosphere i guess.

(and the corridor is decorated with old images of Santa Cruz like these…)
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The session last Friday had been particularly heavenly relaxing, still in a celebration mood, as Michael didn’t miss out on having two of his patients on the same day with the same birthday. We continued bear conversations and i ended up telling him stories from the Trans-Siberian and Mongolian express – so it seems that the things that go through my mind in that room eventually find their way to our conversations. He talked about this travels and longer stays in China. Just when i got eager to tell him my story of the mad goat at the monastry near Ulan Ude, he wanted to know about religious freedom for Buddhists in Russia and Mongolia – a subject i’m slightly less enthousiastic about than the mad goat.

Today was different. The music today was particularly insisting monotonous Chinese – Tibetian – Mongolian something. When he asked me how i was doing, i didn’t do the “fine and it’s getting better” routine. I don’t really know why i do that – something about not really wanting to engage, remain on the surface, avoiding lectures, etc. It probably defeats the purpose of a medical visit. Although in a medical context i somehow prefer to think: okay, do your technical stuff on my body, but leave me out it. Don’t ask me too much, don’t expect me to open my mouth too much, let’s get it over and done with. Although that’s a bit of an understatement, with some doctors i tend to sabotage the technical part as well, like indeed not opening my mouth at the dentist (the number of times my mother had to beg to open my mouth when i was in the dentist seat; she still pratically kidnaps me for dentist appointments…). Anyway, i tell Michael: frankly, the muscles in my shoulders do NOT feel any better than last time, maybe even WORSE. (Voilà, there you go.) He was sweet actually. First giving me some Buddhist wisdom. These things are not linear, you know, many steps forward are followed by steps back. And don’t get upset with not being relaxed, that doesn’t help at all. At this point he made me smile; okay, today my muscles and i are just bad and that’s it and we’ll get treated. Then he started feeling and decided that from his perspective the muscles actually felt better. At least i can distinguish the actual muscles, he said, it’s not one block of tension. (I decided on the spot that i would not visualise myself as a turtle this time.) He does his massage and this time there are no (animal) stories, we don’t speak. Apart from one moment when he says: “You’re fighting me today.” What can i say, don’t take it personally.

At the end of this session which felt quite different from the other ones he scrutinizes me and asks some questions. Then comes the verdict: blood deficiency. And an advice to eat meat and take “Ba Zhag San Women’s Precious” pills. Still bugged when i got home, where i was met with sheer enthousiasm by Leta. “I can get you the pills for half the price, you might just get full advantage of living with a licensed acupunturist, me too i’m blood deficient or at least i was and it took three years for it to go away, and i still think of myself as semi-blood deficient because i have the tendency, it’s because we use our brain a lot (oh… is that the place blood goes?…), let’s sit down and talk about this…” Hm, sounds like we’ll be having a blood deficiency party in the house. And more than that: Leta looked at me with sparkling eyes and a knowing smile and said: “Yes, i feel it, this is what brought you to Santa Cruz, to discover your blood deficiency and get rid of it.” Quite a new insight about what i’m doing here. I wonder if i should mention it in my Marie Curie report. Coming to think of it, i’m sure Marie Curie was blood deficient as well.